Buffalo, NY

Located about 30 minutes from Niagara Falls is the city of Buffalo. Earlier in the century, Buffalo was one of the most prosperous cities in the U.S. and a major industrial hub. However, after the Depression, while many other cities eventually recovered, for whatever reason, Buffalo mysteriously didn't. Even now, this gritty, largely working-class city is still getting back on its feet, sadly with its population declining as people leave to find their fortune elsewhere. As many locals will tell you, anyone who lives in Buffalo is there because they really want to be there, certainly not because of any economic incentives. That said, every single local I met during my short stay was absolutely passionate about Buffalo, and hoping to see a time when the city could get back to its halcyon days.


Apparently, Buffalo is renowned for having some shocking weather in the wintertime. While I was in town, there was a fair bit of snow around, but as the owner of where I was staying said, it was just enough to "make things pretty".




Buffalo is also the home of a foodstuff you can find pretty much anywhere in the States - spicy buffalo wings - the home of which is the famous Anchor Bar, a basic, but friendly establishment minus any attitude. Although many people probably don't think of great architecture when they think of Buffalo, the city is home to several gems. Some are fairly well known, such as the enormous art deco City Hall, in the centre of town, and Frank Lloyd Wright's Darwin Martin House Complex. You can go on tours of both, which provide you with plenty of information on the symbolism in certain features of these buildings, as well as some interesting trivia about the city itself. You don't have to be particularly arty to appreciate how far ahead of his time Frank Lloyd Wright was either.




As I said, Niagara Falls is located a relatively short drive up Interstate 190 from Buffalo. Late November certainly isn't the ideal time to go and see the falls, being particularly chilly, with many attractions such as the Maid Of The Mist boat tours not operating during the colder months. Hence, you can't access the foot of the falls (not that you'd want to when it's near freezing anyway!) and get as close as usual. No matter though, the falls are still pretty awe-inspiring and majestic, whether you see them from the U.S. or Canadian side - most people say that the Canadian view is better, but I found that it's pretty decent either way.


Whether you're enamoured with the falls or not, the 10 minute walk across the bridge to the Canadian side - complete with an immigration-customs checkpoint is still fun...




Customs Officer: How long will you be in Canada?
Me: About an hour or two.

...not to mention the gaudy neon lights of Clifton Hill, complete with its bars, restaurants, souvenir places, and although I couldn't locate it, the highly recommended Shake n' Bake (don't ask).


If it's natural beauty you're after, the falls are truly spectacular. However, I found that with its friendly, down-to-earth locals and its own faded beauty and chequered past, Buffalo itself is also a true gem.