Berlin

Back in May 2008, I bid farewell to a workmate of mine who I had gotten to know pretty well in Atlanta. She was finishing up her year-long stint there, and moving back to Berlin to work. Although we knew we wouldn't get a chance to diss American coffee together anymore, or scrunch our noses up at the mousy smell of the Whitehead Building's foyer, it wasn't a sad moment. Even though I have a habit of not following through on many of my ambitious plans (plans I usually keep to myself for that very reason), I knew that on my way back home from the U.S., I'd stop by Berlin and visit Petra. The one and only other time I've been to Europe was when we were visiting my dad's side of the family when I was about two or three. Hence, I don't remember all that much. I had nearly five full days in Berlin and with the benefit of hindsight, having that time in between leaving Atlanta and coming home served as a buffer of sorts. Being able to put off my arrival and the culture shock I was so scared of, whilst getting the perspective of a friend who had already been through it, was a huge help. Of course, all the advice Petra gave me was spot on.

Although the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, signifying the reunification of East and West Germany, the city of Berlin can still be thought of as existing in two very distinct halves. The former East side is characterised by its cobbled footpaths and several hangovers from the former communist regime, such as the unsightly pre-fabricated housing complexes and potentially hazardous above ground gas pipelines. Nevertheless, even when compared with the West side's many attractions, such as the Brandenburg Gates, Reichstag (where German parliament sits), the massive Ka De We department store and the historic Babelplatz (where the burning of the books took place in 1933), the East side still retains a rough, gritty charm that gives it a lot of appeal.

Babelplatz


Those above ground pipes in the former East


Berlin's Concert Hall


Reichstag


The Brandenburg Gates

Berlin's U- and S-Bahn rail network looked pretty convoluted when I first looked at its map, but it's actually a pretty decent way to get around the city and probably your longest wait between trains is about 10 minutes. S-Bahn trains run above ground, whilst all U-Bahn trains run on the underground subway. Most larger stations service both U- and S-Bahn lines. One unusual thing I noticed was that the consumption of alcohol seems to be acceptable on public transport, as does having your pet with you. I lost count of how many dogs I saw during my trips through town.

A map of Berlin's rail system

U-Bahn subway entrance

Even though it wasn't open to the public on the day I visited (probably due to preparations for the World Athletics Championships), Berlin's Olympiastadion is definitely worth seeing. The 1936 games were held here during a tumultuous period in world history. My guide book described the structure as a "classic example of neo-fascist architecture" and as soon as I saw the entrance, I could see why. Looking up at the two huge grey pillars outside the stadium, you could be forgiven for wondering where the red banners with the swastika were. For me, it was quite a discomforting experience and even though the venue is still in use, it's still a lasting reminder of what would have been a very frightening time.

Looking down onto the Olympiastadion train station platform


The Olympic Rings at the Olympiastadion entrance


Olympiastadion

The thing about Berlin, and probably most other European cities, is that it's stuffed full of history and historic buildings that we never see the likes of back home. There's something very distinct about European structures in general, whether they come in the form of ugly pre-fab apartment blocks or more opulent structures such as the Schloss Charlottenburg. This castle is situated not far back from a busy main road - I'd always previously thought that castles like this could only be found up in remote hills, far from the hustle and bustle of city traffic. Then again, Charlottenburg Castle was built back in the late 1600s as a summer home for Sophie Charlotte, wife of the Elector Freidrich III, long before any of the current thoroughfare developed. There's the main building, along with several smaller buildings on the property that are open to the public. Coming here really deserves a full day to soak up the beautifully manicured grounds and the jaw-dropping rooms.

Schloss Charlottenburg main entrance





You couldn't spend time in Berlin and not visit the Eastside Gallery. This gallery is formed by a 1.5 km stretch of remaining Berlin Wall that has been turned into a mural thanks to the work of many artists - from Germany and abroad. I guess it's hard for tourists to appreciate how menacing a presence the wall would have had before its fall in 1989. We get to see it now in bright sunny colours, with many of the panels bearing positive messages about peace and unity. If you go through the gap in the wall at the souvenir stand though, you get to view its other undecorated side and see it as it would have been seen by East and West Berliners - an ugly, grey, ~3 metre high slab of concrete that goes on and on and on. The gallery is undergoing some pretty extensive restoration at the moment, and you can see how many of the artworks have fallen victim to vandalism, or more naturally occurring damage from the elements. On the day I went along, many of the wall's panels were fenced off, allowing restoration workers to do their job undisturbed. I was also really lucky to see the artist who painted the kiss between two Socialist leaders, Brezhnev and Honecker, getting interviewed.

Looking down the road along Eastside Gallery


Restoration worker


Interview

Not far from where the Eastside Gallery ends, there's a very distinct bridge with two watchtowers at each end. According to Petra, it's said that during the war years, spies from opposing sides were exchanged on this bridge.


I was lucky enough to stay in a lovely part of East Berlin, with easy access into town by tram or train, and full of young folk, especially lots of young couples with little ankle-biters. Just walking across the courtyard to get access to Petra's flat often entailed running a gauntlet of prams and tricycles along the way. It had been a while since I'd ventured out for brunch anywhere, so on my first morning in town, we grazed over a big, lazy breakfast, out in the warm summer sun among the throng spilling out onto the footpath.

Note the many bikes!


The view across the courtyard where I stayed

One good thing about Berlin is that most locals do speak English, and even the ones that don't, seem to get the gist of what you require. Reflecting on it, Berlin is such an old city with a rich history, yet it's actually filled with young folk. Well worth the detour!